#14 Dr Natasha Barnes - Teen Bouldering Star to Elite Powerlifting, Injury Truths, and, Gender Dynamics in Strength Sports

Climbing prodigy turned powerlifter and Doctor of Chiropractic Natasha Barnes shares wisdom on strength training for longevity, overcoming injuries through targeted rehab, nutrition for performance, and finding inspiration in lifelong athletic progression.

0:00 **Intro Monologue**
Friends, welcome back to the ageless athlete podcast where we bring you stories and secrets of age-defying adventure sports icons. This is your host, Kush Khandelwal. It's spring here and days are getting longer and it's a great time to be alive. Love the show or hate the show? DM me on my social media handles, or just send me a note at kush@agelessathlete.co.   

While I mostly love talking to outsize adventure sports icons, sometimes it's an honor to have a great athlete who has turned their passion into a career to help others realize their athletic aspirations. Today on the podcast we have teen climbing prodigy, bouldering guru, and fitness savant Dr. Natasha Barnes who will help us cut through the confusion around exercise, fitness and longevity in climbing and life.

1:16 **Guest Introduction**
Natasha is a former winner of the US Bouldering Nationals who says that she didn't even think she could be climbing at that higher level, much less competing in powerlifting or doing the profession she does now. She talks about many things in this masterclass: Why strength training may be the closest thing to a silver bullet. We uncover some surprising truths about injuries, rehabs and MRIs that change how you view physical setbacks. We talk about some longevity secrets from an elite who is still crushing harder than ever at 40. Natasha says she's better than she has ever felt as an athlete. And then finally we will deliver some straight doc on nutrition, menstrual cycles and the other make-or-break factors for consistent performance.

2:10 **Interview Begins**

2:51 Natasha shares her journey from teen climbing prodigy to competing as an elite powerlifter and becoming a Doctor of Chiropractic.

5:29 On burnout from only climbing and lack of cross-training leading to injuries early in her career.

6:40 How injuries motivated her to pursue chiropractic and strength training to improve her own climbing.

8:50 The transformative impact of adding strength training, resolving lingering shoulder issues.

11:02 Transitioning from professional climber to focus on powerlifting, and circling back to climbing now at age 40 feeling stronger than ever.

13:18 Reflecting on the scarcity of training resources and coaches for climbers when she was starting out versus the wealth of information available today.

15:45 Favorite peak moments from her climbing career, like winning Bouldering Nationals and iconic sends in Yosemite Valley.  

18:57 How many gifted young climbers she competed against burned out quickly or had to quit due to injuries from sport specialization too young.

20:37 On the importance of periodization, off-seasons and diversifying training for longevity in climbing.

23:12 The essential role of nutrition for consistent energy and recovery that she didn't fully grasp earlier in her career.

25:38 Misconceptions she had to overcome to embrace strength training as complementary to climbing, not contrary.

27:56 General recommendations for minimum strength training volume to meet physical activity guidelines.

30:47 Similarities in programming for male and female athletes. The research showing no differences in strength potential between genders when correcting for muscle mass.  

33:30 Using autoregulation and Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) to adapt training load for fluctuations across the menstrual cycle.

36:46 Example of a client overcoming a severe shoulder condition through targeted rehab, avoiding recommended surgery.

40:18 Why imaging like MRIs often show "abnormalities" that are just normal signs of aging, not necessarily indicative of pain or compromised performance.  

43:10 How the latest research shows many imaging "pathologies" like labral tears are incredibly prevalent even in asymptomatic elite climbers.

45:36 The paradigm shift to view rehab programming as simply sport-specific training, scaled for current ability level.

47:28 Clarifying the role and importance of stretching and mobility work versus just practicing end ranges through climbing drills.

51:40 Accommodating overhead movement limitations by modifying strength exercises rather than removing them entirely.

53:58 The evolution of her personal climbing goals, from sending testpieces as a pro to potentially climbing her hardest grades yet through strength training.

57:16 Dream climbing objectives like the Pura Vida V13 in Magic Wood and world-class areas like Mexico and South Africa.

58:35 If she could put a message on a billboard: "Strength training is healthcare."

59:14 The best use of $100? Spending it on an awesome meal and memorable experience.

59:52 Ending thoughts and appreciation for Natasha's insights.  

---